ABOUT TSE

ADVENTURE
TRAVEL

BUSINESS
TRAVEL

VACATION
TRAVEL

REPORTS
ONLINE

ITINERARY
ONLINE

TRAVEL
INSURANCE

TRAVEL
PROFILE

SECURITY
TIPS

DESTINATION
REPORTS

HOME

DESTINATION REPORTS

Via Rail's Ocean ©2003 Dick Spencer

NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA
Dick Spencer, CTC
July, 2003

I am a great enthusiast of passenger train travel, earlier this summer I flew to Montreal, Quebec in order to take the train from that city to Halifax, Nova Scotia. The journey, on Via Rail's train the Ocean, takes about 20 hours. The train is a classic streamliner with many cars of fluted stainless steel siding and a bullet-shaped observation car. There are coaches with reclining seats, sleeping cars with several types of bedrooms, a dining car and two lounge cars with upstairs domes which provide a 360-degree view of the passing countryside. Most of the sleeping accommodations are in private rooms for one, two, or three people, but I chose one of the old-fashioned "sections". These are semi-private arrangements in which the seats that face seat other during the day are converted to upper and lower berths at night. Heavy curtains provide some privacy.

TSE's Dick Spencer in the dining car of Via Rail's Ocean

One of the delights of train travel for me is the experience of meeting fellow travelers. On an airplane one may not even make eye contact with the person in the next seat, but trains seem to offer more opportunities for exchanges of conversation. Shortly after our 6:45 p.m. departure from Montreal, I made my way to the dining car. Because of limited space a single passenger is seated with other travelers. My dining companions and I enjoyed our meal with a scenic view. The tables were covered with crisp white linen table clothes and there were fresh flowers in the bud vases. There were four choices of entrees all of which had been freshly prepared in the small kitchen of the diner. I opted for the poached salmon with rice and vegetables. I had a delicious bowl of ham and chicken soup for a starter, chocolate cake for dessert,and a glass of Canadian wine to wash it all down. The entire bill came to $25.00, and there was no charge for the scenery. Returning to my sleeping car, I found that the beds had already been made by the attendant. I was not quite ready to retire, so I took a seat in one of the dome cars and watched as we traveled along side the St. Lawrence River, which was bathed in the light of a full moon. The following morning a complimentary continental breakfast was served for passengers in the lounge cars. I spent much of the day in the dome car as we sped through the farm land of New Brunswick. We arrived in Halifax at 5:00 p.m., about an hour behind schedule.

I spent the rest of the day and all of the next exploring this charming and historic city. Highlights for me were the beautiful Victorian Public Gardens begun in 1836, the impressive hilltop Halifax Citadel which guarded the harbor and city for many years, and a vibrant and pedestrian friendly waterfront area. I also enjoyed visits to Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and to the Pier 21 Historic Site (Canada's version of Ellis Island). Except for the cemetery with graves of some of the people lost in the sinking of the Titanic, these sites are within easy walking distance of each other.

Lunenberg, Nova Scotia, Canada ©2003 Dick Spencer

On the third morning, I rented a car and began a two-day trip through western Nova Scotia toward the town of Yarmouth. If I had had more time I would also have driven the Cabot Trail to Cape Breton Island, but that will give me a good excuse to come back another time. The drive toward Yarmouth on the south shore of the peninsula is called the Lighthouse route; it is a journey through a landscape of incredible coastal beauty and charming historic villages. One of the most famous and most photographed is Peggy's Cove with its weathered fish sheds and colorful fishing boats. Not far from there is Lunenburg, one of Nova Scotia's most historic and beautiful towns. Because of its captivating architecture, charming waterfront and well-preserved buildings, Old Town Lunenburg has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site by the United Nations.

Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia, Canada ©2003 Dick Spencer

From Lunenburg I left the Lighthouse route and traveled though the middle of Nova Scotia toward Annapolis Royal, on the north shore, where I spent the night. This town is one of the oldest in Canada and was originally settled by the French. Today there are many large homes, broad tree- lined streets and beautiful gardens. The route along the north shore is called the Evangeline Trail in homage to the displaced Acadians who were immortalized in Longfellow's poem Evangeline. I passed by many Acadian fishing villages and beautiful Catholic churches. I ended up in Yarmouth with its many examples of late 19th-century architecture built when Yarmouth was a prosperous seaport. The following morning I boarded the Scotia Prince for an 11-hour ferry ride to Portland, Maine and from there I flew home.

Though the value of the Canadian dollar has increased against the U.S. dollar lately, the exchange rate is still in our favor. I found meals and lodging to be relatively inexpensive. Because of a long winter and late spring the best time to travel is in July and August. September and early October are cooler, but great for fall foliage. You may want to check out the following websites for good general information:

www.novascotia.com
www.halifax.com

More TSE Destination Reports:
QEII | Scenic Swiss Train Ride |Thailand | Monarch of the Seas/Mexico
Hong Kong/Macau | Nova Scotia | Queen Mary II | The Elation/Mexico & Belize